Tag Archives: Land Cruiser

A Five Star Hotel

Thinking about it now, R1600 (approx. 114 USD) for a room in a five star hotel is pretty cheap, but when you are an overland traveler counting every penny that you spend, bargaining (and in some cases begging) becomes a habit.

Our drive to the border began late morning, after we bade farewell to Ali  Cemal (pronounced Jemal) – the owner of the little restaurant and campsite, that we had made our home base in Trabzon, Turkey. The Georgian border was just over 200 kms away so we thought a leisurely drive along the Black Sea would get us there in time.

Little did we know that while these thoughts ran through our heads and we settled into the drive, a very excited farmer, driving a red lorry with his wife and the load bay full of cows was eyeing our truck. What happened next was the subject of a Facebook post on our page:

“We are always a few hours late, but sometimes it has a hilarious and heart warming story behind it. We were making our way out of Trabzon to Georgia when a red lorry carrying about 5 cows kept driving up to the side of us. The cutest old couple would excitedly wave at us. The eccentric driver of said lorry followed us from a small town Macka into the city centre, pulled us off the road and literally whisked us to his younger brothers cafe – Cafe Aloha – for a tea and a chat. Davut Celeb owner of cafe pictured at the bottom”

Davuts brother had asked us to wait for him at the cafe while he quickly delivered his cows. We waited a while but then asked Davut’s leave as border crossings are always a stressful event. As we got close to the Sarp border crossing, we passed through the border town of Kemalpasha and experienced a feeling that was familiar to us from most border towns we had passed.

There is this sense of dodginess and desperation. You see people who are in a state of some stress, be it the urgent need to get across the border or the stress of not having the right papers or the worry of being caught out by Customs for the goods they want to take across and sell. Then you see the dodgy characters lurking around figuring out ways to take advantage of these desperate people. Don’t get me wrong, it is very seldom that an entire town gives off this eerie vibe but more the main road that leads to the border and most often than not, that is the only part of the border town passersby experience.

Sunset at the borderWhen we arrived at the border we saw a long queue of cars and I got confused about the process. Since it was time for the Maghrib prayer, we said our prayers and made our way to the border office on foot to try and figure out the process. Before we knew it our passports were being stamped and only then did we realize that the ‘foot queue’ was only for those who were crossing the border on foot and for passengers of the cars!

Masjid at the Sarp Border Crossing
Masjid at the Sarp Border Crossing

Panicked, we tried to explain to the Turkish officials that we want to cross in our car and in true Turkish fashion, without any stress (even with hundreds of people in the queue), they stamped us back into Turkey, told to us get in the vehicle queue and drive to the crossing. I remember thinking to myself, I should just listen to K!

We eventually got across the border – me in the car and K on foot – and met on the Georgian side. The process here was quick and efficient and we were in a country we had never in our wildest dreams thought of visiting (Read about that here).

By the time we had exchanged our money and started driving away from the border it was 8pm. At this point we had no idea where we would be spending the night. We thought we could find a hotel in the popular tourist town of Batumi. We had read that Batumi, the second largest city in Georgia, was a resort town, but didn’t realise that gambling is one of it’s main attractions.

We decided against sleeping here and found a campsite on our GPS about 60 kms out. As we neared the campsite the GPS told us to get off the main road onto a dirt road. We followed the directions along extremely dark roads, which did have houses but these were very dark too. We figured that this might be a holiday destination and the houses were most likely holiday homes that were not occupied.

When we got to the location, we saw nothing but an empty patch of land, adjacent to a double story house where the lights were switched on. We tried to get somebody’s attention to see if we could get some information on the campsite but were unlucky. We drove up and down the road, trying to find the right place and then decided to give up.

The GPS also indicated a B&B nearby and we thought this will have to be our accommodation for the night. Through  the more dark streets we arrived in front of a house that had one light switched on outside and the flashing of a TV screen on the inside. We rang the bell, knocked and hooted until a silhouette of a person looked through an upstairs window at us. He motioned to us that B&B was closed. We were perplexed.

Out of options we decided to try Kobuleti, a town we had bypassed on our way to the campsite. The GPS indicated many hotels here and so we felt hope. It was already close to 10 pm and in our exhaustion were desperate enough to settle for the first hotel room we found.

The streets of Kobuleti were wide, there were street lights but roads were deserted. We came to the first hotel which was very quiet, almost shut down. After knocking on the door a while someone eventually emerged, smiled and invited us in. The reception was modern and well kept. This looked like a good hotel. He told us that the hotel was closed and tried to get hold of the manager to see if he could give us a room.  No luck – he allowed us to use the bathroom and we continued on our quest. The second and third hotels were exactly the same, we rang bells at receptions, knocked on doors and hooted but there was no response. We realised that this may have been the off-peak season and hence there were no visitors in town.

We avoided The Georgia Palace Hotel on the GPS list because  it sounded too expensive. At this point, our choices were rather slim. It was either, find a room or spend the night in the streets of a city and country we didn’t know much about.

The gates to The Georgia Palace hotel opened as the gates of any palace would. We drove down a long  drive way and got to the 5 star reception. With knots in our stomach we went in and found someone there. They were open! We were tired, but gathered up the strength to haggle and bring the price down a bit before we accepted and paid.

We ordered a veg pizza, ate and enjoyed a good nights sleep. In the morning before continuing on our journey, we took a walk along the beach and wondered what this place would be like in the busy season.
Beach at the Georgia Palace Hotel     

Dodging Rally Drivers in Safari Jeeps at the Ngorongoro and Serengeti

By Khairunnisa
On day thirty four of our travels, we started to make our way towards the much anticipated Tanzanian National Parks. We ate a traditional lunch at Bhaajia along the side of the main road in Arusha, bought some airtime and drove towards the Ngorongoro National Park.
Lunch at Bhaajia was a traditional Tanzanian rice and lentil curry. Very tasty!!
Lunch at Bhaajia was a traditional Tanzanian rice and lentil curry. Very tasty!!
Walking on the side of the road in Arusha
Walking on the side of the road in Arusha
We stopped along the way at lake Manyara National Park where we thought we would camp but the prices were too high. This part of the country with prices in dollars are discouraging to road travellers from the continent. A kind tour operator at the office overheard our conversation and suggested that we drive further to try out Haven nature camp-site. There were many viewpoints of Lake Manyara which we enjoyed along the way.
View Point for Lake Manyara on the way to Haven Nature Campsite
View Point for Lake Manyara on the way to Haven Nature Campsite
Stopped to view Lake Manyara
Stopped to view Lake Manyara

When we reached Haven Nature, light drizzle turned to heavy rain and the camp-site area rapidly changed to thick soggy mud making it impossible to camp. We had to stay in one of the lodges tented camps instead but enjoyed a restful sleep in our first tented camp.

The next day was spent sorting out administration fees and park permits in the small town of Karatu where we camped the night.  We always seem to find ourselves in interesting places during interesting times. Tanzanian elections were under way and the streets were filled with young people from various political groups.

On the way to the camp site, as we took the turn a young man motioned a sign with his hand as if pointing  a gun to the head  while giving us an angry stare down. Naturally, this caused much stress and a night of restless sleep in the tent ensued. This is never good when you have a day of rough off road driving ahead.

 At the gate of the Ngorongoro, we realised just what a tourist attraction this place was. The parking lot was buzzing with over confident tour operators clearly all on a mission and being dutifully followed by their tourists. We went to the toilets at the gate which felt like the bathrooms at a big concert. It rained most of the way but we barely noticed the rain amidst the incredibly magnificent views.
Entrance to the Ngorongoro Crater
Entrance to the Ngorongoro Crater
The thick lush green vegetation along the road  to the crater
The thick lush green vegetation along the road to the crater

It was like we had entered an enchanted unearthly world. Thick lush green forests opened the way to a view to the crater. Without a word of exaggeration this was possibly the most beautiful sight we had ever witnessed. A vast and indescribable ‘hole’ in the earth with the most lush vegetation, hills and animals all compacted into one spot. A world within a world and we were looking in.

The lookout point over the Ngorongoro Crater
The lookout point over the Ngorongoro Crater
 Many tourists came to the viewpoint and left and we still stood there taking our time since we had not purchased the expensive permit to drive into the crater. We were transiting to the Serengeti so we made the most of this view. A man rushed to the railing and excitedly looked out into the crater and then looked towards us asking: “have you spotted anything?” . We were confused about what we were meant to spot and only later realised that people seem to be in a constant mad panic racing against each other to spot wildlife. We wondered if he had ‘spotted’ the magnificent view in front.
A view of the Ngorongoro  Crater
A view of the Ngorongoro Crater

 

A view of the Ngorongoro  Crater
A view of the Ngorongoro Crater
A kind lady offered to take a picture of us with our camera. We stood in the rain like that for a while and in that time the view changed from a clear magnificent postcard panorama to a clouded contrast shot of a zoomed point. We eventually pushed ourselves out of this area to drive onward.
Us at the Ngorongoro  Crater
Us at the Ngorongoro Crater

The road and terrain changed rapidly, sometimes winding green hills and sometimes flat yellow land as far as the eye can see. Every now and then in the distance you will spot a bright red dot, a Masai in traditional attire. We came across many red dots up close along the road until I plucked up the courage to stop and ask three of them if we could take their picture. One was not at all happy and made sure we knew this. The others acceded and I clicked quickly, eyes closed as I take all my pictures. Closed eyes and hoping for the best, hoping that the one guys anger would get captured. We paid all three as agreed and that seemed to be a consolation.
Young Masai Men
Young Masai Men
The angry young Masai man
The angry young Masai man
A Masai Women walks to her village
A Masai Women walks to her village

Animals are everywhere and in abundance which makes the “spotting” phenomenon even funnier because it is so unnecessary. There was no need to do the standard stop and wait in silence as one would in other parks. The animals came willingly very close to road. We stopped in the rain to reduce our tyre pressure as the road became treacherously corrugated.

Chilling Wildebeest
Chilling Wildebeest
Rain on the way to the Serengeti
Rain on the way to the Serengeti
 I desperately needed to pee and was ready to do a bush style. I meticulously planned it in the car and then cautiously got off. The traffic was deceptively heavy as dozens of tour vehicles passed by. I stood there in the rain watching them, and they passed by smiling. These were ‘knowing’ smiles I thought and carried on standing there in the dirt road, rain pouring down istinja bottle in hand gazing longingly at what would be the only bush for the next hundred kilometres. Of all the reasons I had collected over the years to hate living in the proverbial man’s world, the practicality of this reason drenched me to the bone. I recalled the hundreds of times on the road I had seen drivers casually jump off and relieve themselves. I stood there looking at the smiles of the passers by, heard their giggles in my head and gave up, abruptly abandoning my master plan.
Serenity on the way to the Serengeti
Serenity on the way to the Serengeti
One of the tour operators stop to let their tourists photograph the Giraffes
One of the tour operators stop to let their tourists photograph the Giraffes

We stopped to photograph the Giraffes as well!

We stopped to photograph the Giraffes as well!

 

Might be a Masai family compound.
Possibly a Masai family compound.
We continued to drive towards the Serengeti, the road being treacherous for two reasons. Tour operator drivers present the main hazard and are some of the worst drivers we have encountered flashing and hooting all other cars out the way. Even when out the way means you are now heading down a cliff. Speed limits are extremely necessary given the road conditions which can change dramatically within a few kilometres. Roads are narrow, uneven and rocky, sometimes winding up and down and sometimes climbing steeply, and most of the way you can add slippery corrugation and potholes to this. Speed limits are simply ignored  despite and in spite of the regular sign posts along the way.
Road conditions in the Serengeti
Road conditions in the Serengeti
Road conditions along the way
Road conditions along the way
Masai Village along the road to the Serengeti
Masai Village along the road to the Serengeti
The second reason is the constant corrugation. This is not the mild lets jerk your head around till you fall asleep kind of corrugation. This is the “African massage” kind, where violent vibrations result in your ribs saying hello to your pelvis and every other type of vile introduction of body part to body part. The type of corrugation where you hear things rattle, break and snap and get that sneaky diesel smell burn in your nostrils, but know that you have to just keep going and motor on lest your stopping means you are unable to continue again.

The drive was made all the more worthwhile once we saw the glorious gates of the Serengeti in the late afternoon sun. Seeing the look on the faces of tour operator vehicle drivers when they noticed me getting off the drivers side of our car was priceless. The meek looking little girl kept up to them undeterred by their terror antics.
Entrance to the Serengeti
Entrance to the Serengeti
We got our Serengeti permits and enjoyed a conversation with the guards at the gate. We took a walk up to the Naabi Hill viewpoint which was our first view of the Serengeti.
View from halfway up the service road shortly we decided to turn back.
View from halfway up the service road shortly we decided to turn back.

If there was any space left, it filled our souls with awe, so much so that we (and by ‘we’ I really mean Farhaan) completely forgot about the hundreds of purple headed lizards that surrounded us up the path and at the lookout.

On the road  towards the public camp-site , we observed how in just a few kilometres of crossing over from one area to the next, we were offered completely different sights. The Serengeti plains glowed in the late afternoon sun and animals hopped around us happily. There was a remarkable silence in the air that brought every picture we ever saw of that moment and gave it life. We passed many herds of buck, giraffe, antelope and many different birds and vultures until we reached our camp.
These guys welcome you to the Serengeti
These guys welcome you to the Serengeti
And they pose for our pics.
And they pose for our pics.
More Wildebeest!
Another welcoming party!
Picture Perfect
Picture Perfect
We set up camp amidst sounds of lions, baboons and hippo’s in the air. We dragged ourselves exhaustedly in the dark towards the kitchen  common area which consisted of a large hall type protected cage or barracks. We did not want to think of the reason for such a set up.
Our camp site in the Serengeti
Our camp site in the Serengeti
As we tried to begin preparing our own supper, the chef of one of the larger tour groups insisted that we abandon our efforts, relax and allow him to treat us to supper. What a treat it was as we nibbled on a starter of popcorn, sipped on hot soup and bread and ended with a delicious main of vegetable curry and rice. We went to bed fully satiated, not being able to take in more but being given more anyway. We dozed off to sounds of lions and hyena and giggled at the improbability of getting ‘half bitten’ by a scorpion. I was convinced otherwise.
Rain on the way to the Serengeti
Sunrise in the Serengeti
Our camp site the next morning
Our camp site the next morning
On Day 37, sans breakfast we set out towards the Namanga gate after taking route advice from one of the tour operators based at our camp. Farhaan’s  instinct was on full steam and we took a road off the main road where we spotted a few hyena on the side of road.
We took this circular route off the main road in Serengeti which was really quite
We took this circular route off the main road in Serengeti which was really quite

 

Chilling Hyenas on a hot day
Chilling Hyenas on a hot day
Peeping Hyenas
Peeping Hyenas
 It then led onto an unused service road which climbed up a hill that became progressively steeper and rockier making it rather tricky to navigate. At one point Farhaan got off the car to survey the road ahead and the car started to stagger backwards even with the car in gear and hand-brake engaged. I had to jump over and hit the breaks to stop it from rolling.  We continued  until we reached an opening to a viewpoint and stopped to take pictures of the beauty which the difficult drive was rewarded with.
View from halfway up the service road shortly we decided to turn back.
View from halfway up the service road shortly after we decided to turn back.
View from halfway up the service road shortly we decided to turn back.
View from halfway up the service road shortly after we decided to turn back.
On the drive back down the hill we found ourselves alone right in from of a herd of migrating wildebeest. We switched off the engine and hearts pounding we watched and listened in silence up close as they passed by in straight lines rhythmically beating their hooves and intermittently calling out to groups at the back. It was dreamlike and in a daze we continued towards the main road again.
The Wildebeest Migration that we came across by chance.
The Wildebeest Migration that we came across by chance.

 

Again,  we were almost run over a few more times by wild tour guide drivers. Ironically a few minutes later we passed by a freshly turned over vehicle on the side of the road.

A vehicle overturned in the Serengeti. It looked like it may have happened a couple of days ago.
A vehicle overturned in the Serengeti. It looked like it may have happened a couple of days ago.
We spent the afternoon at the hippo pools watching hundreds of them bathing and congregating. We met a Czech and Slovak couple who were also over-landing (www.onoffroads.com).
At the Hippo Pool
At the Hippo Pool
Hippo Pool
Hippo Pool
We reached the exit to the Serengeti National Park shortly after spotting a dead zebra lying in one of the springs on the side of the road.
At the exit gate of the Serengeti
At the exit gate of the Serengeti

As we exited, we hoped to find a camp site near by as the tyre pressure was very low and could not be corrected in the heavy rains and mud we were driving. We turned off the main road after exiting the park to follow a camp-site on our GPS. We ended up getting horribly stuck in clay like mud. Farhaan was awesome in getting the max tracks under the tyres. Two locals helped us out. Many other passers by came and watched and so it was that we played our first game of stuck in the mud on this journey. “Silly mzungu’s” is what they probably thought.

We continued to the main road and stopped at the very first camp-site we spotted called Serengeti Stopover. It was dark and dreary looking with many hazy eyed drinkers at the pub. That night I washed dishes in the dark after having used the scariest toilet ever. I was startled by two heavily armed guards walking towards me which we later learned were hired policeman for our security. Brown sludgy water emerging from the taps in the toilet and now this, it just felt like too much. At three that morning, I got up startled and insisted we pack up the tent. Just as we clicked the last clip into place, it began pouring down. Now my instinct was in full gear we joked!

And onto Kenya it was…

 

Day 2 – Dog pee and police clearance

We woke early with the sound of the Adhaan, prayed Fajar (morning prayer)  and went back to sleep. We woke up again much later and had to rush as checkout time had approached. Being stressed about not getting late for checkout, K began taking the bags to the car and left them next to the car.

As we started packing everything into the car, to our horror we saw that one of the dogs from the lodge had peed all over our stuff!! Great start to an epic journey!! hmph! With a bit of anger and a hint of depression we rinsed our stuff before packing it back into the car.

During check out we asked the receptionist about the closest border crossing to Botswana. He advised us to use the Skilpadshek border crossing as it was less busy and not as frequented by trucks.  But before we headed to the border we had some admin to take care of.

We drove to the Zeerust police station where we needed to get some documents certified and get a police clearance for Earl II. At the station we got reprimanded for trying to park our vehicle in the parking area that said “visitors” so we promptly reversed outwards and parked across the road.

Officers at the station were firm but professsional, and the officer helping us warmed up after K struck up a conversation.  We understood his initial irritation due the large stack of papers we gave him to certify. We left there with certified documents but without the police clearance as the relevant officials were on sick leave. Officer Lekgoba advised us to proceed to Lehurutshe police station to get this. It was quite entertaining getting the pronunciation right (or wrong).

Nicely built and good service. They helped with a print out of our vehicle to serve as clearence.
Nicely built and good service. They helped with a print out of our vehicle to serve as clearence.

The Lehurutshe police station was a huge police compound with several buildings. People there were extremely helpful and one lady officer even walked to us to the correct building. At building two, the friendly ladies gave us a place to sit while they organised the relevant office to attend to us and discussed quad bike with us that was for sale from theft stock. An officer who was on leave that day was around and kindly agreed to assist us. With police clearance in hand, smiles on our faces and the dog pee in distant memory we made our way to Skilpadshek border post.

 

Road sign to the Skilpadshek Border
Road sign to the Skilpadshek Border

 

The very shnazy and efficient Skilpadshek border crossing. Thanks to the guy at the BnB we stayed at for sending us here.
The very shnazy and efficient Skilpadshek border crossing. Thanks to the guy at the BnB we stayed at for sending us here.

Border processes here were extremely efficient and we were on our way within minutes. It was hot day but not unbearable. From the border office we proceeded to the last couple of gates that marked the end of South Africa. As came to the first gate, we came across what would be our first and only encounter of officials demanding something from us (at least in Africa). The officer insisted we give him something to drink. In our panic, we parted with one of our two precious bottles of ice cold Coo-ee Lemon. A few meters down the next officer who noticed this, insisted on getting something too and we handed over a R20 note. That is SA we thought as we left our homeland for over a year.

At the Botswana border they were a little more thorough and asked K twice why we were visiting and the exact names of people we were visiting. Luckily we had been invited by the Peerbhay’s to stay with them in Gaborone so providing those details wasn’t a problem. As we got back to the car after the formalities, a kind man next to told us to go back and pay for our TIP – Temporary Import Permit – for the vehicle.

#Lesson: we learned that if we had kept the TIP from our last trip to Botswana in December we could have reused it. It is valid for 12 months.

With all the border admin finally completed we made our way to Gaborone which was just over an hour away. We relaxed for the next two days at the Peerbhay residence and completed some final outstanding items on our checklist.

Day 1 – Sunday 01 March 2015

Our Sunday farewell was a bit surreal. We had obviously been planning for almost eight years for this day and it had finally arrived. It also felt surreal because for the last two weeks we had been working tirelessly ticking off last minute action items off several lists. This meant that for two weeks prior to this day we were eating junk takeaway meals almost daily, barely sleeping and totally getting on each other’s nerves.

Nervously we gathered and packed the last few things into the vehicle, later realising we had almost forgotten thirty percent of our foodstuff, which would make a big difference later on. We were about an hour late at our own farewell but it was all okay and today our friends and family would forgive any failures.

We chose the Turkish Masjid (Mosque) for its size and centrality, no catering and organizing fuss and symbolically leaving from a Masjid made sense. We both hoped that we had planned it a little better so that there would be a few planned prayer items and maybe a few words from people we had asked far too late and who understandably could not make it. But even in this unplanned chaos of the day, it all turned out okay. It was an emotional day where many of our friends and family gathered for hesitant farewells.

Farewell from Nizamiye Mosque, Midrand, Johannesburg, South Africa
Farewell from Nizamiye Mosque, Midrand, Johannesburg, South Africa

Later that day on a Facebook post, I described the day “It was a send off to be remembered today. Everyone gathered at theNizamiye Masjid in Midrand for an overwhelmingly emotional morning. The two of us are on the road now filled with feelings of intense gratitude for having reached this point. Thank you to all who were present in person and spirit to send us off with prayers and positive energy. The destination does not matter, how far we get and how many countries we cover is irrelevant. This moment matters and the journey has begun. #Alhamdulillah“.

 

Driving away after from our farewell
Driving away from our farewell
Visiting dads grave before leaving Joburg
Visiting dads grave before leaving Joburg

We then drove to the Westdene cemetery to pay respects to Farhaan’s late dad. K read the traditional script from the Qur’an – Surah Yasin and her dad prayed the closing prayer with both our families present. We then made another graveyard visit to Lenasia to pay respects to Farhaan’s late grandfather who had undertaken a similar journey with his family in the 60’s (more here).

 

At this point K was bursting for the toilet. We soon learned that this would be a consistent problem of our travels that would give us many teary eyed giggles on the way.  We stopped at K’s cousins place in Lenasia who was delighted to have us for a few minutes, gifted us some Coo-ee Lemon (local carbonated drink) for the road and we were on the way.

Zeerust (close to the border of Botswana) was our first stop and the weather was lovely and overcast all the way. We spent the night at Sha-Henney’s guest house where a strange looking Afrikaans speaking man in a mullet and a tiny pony tail at reception helped us with the booking and also cautioned us against having the breakfast due to “respect for your religion”. We were impressed and obliged.

We were both extremely exhausted and ate some of the pies that were packed for us by family, showered and literally collapsed into bed after Maghreb (evening prayer).